Tag: knitting

Sheep to Sweater Story
Knitting Blog

Sheep to Sweater Story

Martha2 Comments

           Follow along with me as I design and knit

a sweater for my brother, Bob.

Bob and Martha

Bob lives in Maryland and has two pet Babydoll sheep. Their names are “Wooley” and “Lambchop”.

“Wooley”
“Lambchop”

Quoting from Mylittlesheep.com: “Babydolls are sweet.  They are peaceful, curious, intelligent, and like to interact with each other and “their people”.” You can learn more about Babydoll sheep by clicking on this link: Mylittle sheep.com.

The main thing knitters need to know about Babydolls is that they make great outdoor pets and their fleece is beautiful. 

These two sheep have been completely sheared twice so far in their young lives. They also have their faces and undersides sheared a second time per year.  If their fleece is allowed to continue to grow around their face, it can cover their eyes completely, causing “wool blindness”. The wool from the two complete shearings was saved, carded and washed. Babydoll sheep fleece has a very short fiber, so to enable the wool to be commercially spun, it was mixed with 50% merino. Each skein is about 220 yards and the yield was 55 skeins! That is a lot of yarn! So… I will start by making him a sweater. That should make a very small dent in the amount!

The Plan

I took measurements from a well fitting garment that Bob owns. I sketched out a schematic with all of the vital numbers:

Then, I decided what stitch design I wanted. I chose a three-over-three left crossing cable and off-set the cable twist every 12 rows. The back will be plain stockinette stitch. Of course this means that I had to make a swatch with the stitches that I will be using in the garment!

Then I had to measure the gauge in both the stockinette stitch portion and the cable stitch portion. For help figuring out how to measure gauge, see my previous blog post, “It Really Is All About the Gauge”.

I got a gauge of 5.22 stitches per inch in stockinette stitch and 6.66 stitches per inch in the cable pattern. As you can see, the cable pulls the fabric in quite a bit, so I will have to do a bit of math to figure out the stitch count for the front and back. Math, math, math (doing the math)… The sweater will be 21″ across the chest for the front. 21 x 6.66= 140 (rounded) sts for the front. The back will be 21″ x 5.22= 110. The cable pattern is a multiple of 8 plus 2 (a 6 stitch cable and 2 purls between equals 8 sts in the cable pattern and I also want to have two purls on the opposite end to balance.) That means that for the front of the sweater I need to have 138 sts to make the pattern come out evenly. Since I need 140 sts for the front, I am going to add two knit sts on either side of the front that will blend in nicely with the back stockinette stitch. I will make the sweater in the round to the armhole. That means that the body of the sweater will have 250 sts. Whew. Time to cast on.

I want to use a measurement of 40″ circumference at the hip. I am using my stockinette gauge to calculate. I will use a 2 x 2 rib, which is a multiple of 4. So, 40″ x 5.22= 208 sts. Is this a multiple of 4? Why yes, yes it is! When I finish my border of about 2″, I will increase evenly to 250 on the last row of ribbing using a Knit Front and Back increase and then begin the cable pattern. I have decided to use the German Twisted Cast On  (or HERE) to begin, it is nice and stretchy and looks good. I have an entire blog post detailing the German Twisted Cast On!

Finally, since there are 250 sts to cast on, I used two skeins of yarn to cast on so I wouldn’t run out of the long tail.

So, there it is! The very beginning of the Wooley and Lambchop Sweater for Bob!

As always, KnitYourselfHappy!

October Knitting
Knitting Blog

October Knitting

Martha1 Comment

I love this time of year when the air is crisp in the morning and the sunlight is gentle. Knitters may feel in the mood to start creating items for cooler weather. Decorations for fall are some of my favorite things to knit.

Check out these darling pumpkins. You can make them with any weight yarn, but because I think they are so cute, I had to make them tiny! I used various fingering weight yarns and size 3 and 4 double point needles.

Need help getting started with double points?

Check out my You Tube video here.

 

 

And the Summer Squash looks just like the real thing!

 

As if I couldn’t get enough, I had to make the Zucchini.

 

For me, knitting the tiny items is instant gratification. Each one I finish is my favorite!

 

 

 

 

But… some people like to make super chunky items for instant gratification. So, I decided to knit The October Vest by Karen Clements on Ravelry. How is that for cozy warmth to toss on with a pair of jeans? I used four skeins of Loopy Mango Merino 5 in Midnight and size 19 needles.

 

 

 

 

And last but not least, every year I have to make another Pumpkin Hat! This one was made with Berroco Vintage Worsted in the most beautiful orange you have ever seen.

We love knitting in the cooler weather!

Knit Yourself Happy!

 

 

 

The Mysteries of Blocking
Knitting Blog

The Mysteries of Blocking

Martha2 Comments

People often ask me what blocking means. In the “olden days”, before there were washable yarns, woolen garments had to be soaked and pinned into shape to get them to look good, and possibly stretch them out a bit to fit the growing child. With newer superwash wool and other fibers, the strict blocking of most garments has gone by the wayside.

Simply laundering the finished knitted item according to the instructions on the ball band is my tried and true method. For a list of explanations about all of the funny looking laundry symbols and their meanings, click here.

I can’t explain some knitters’ fear of taking care of a garment. Have you ever washed a baby or child? Maybe the first bath for a newborn is traumatic for a new parent, but after that first one, it gets easy! Think about it: mild temperature, mild soap, do not twist or wring the baby (sweater), wrap in a towel to dry. Ok, maybe with a garment you might have to wrap it in dry towels a few times to get the extra water out. And perhaps you won’t lay the baby flat to dry, but you get the idea, right?

Most superwash wool can be laundered in the machine on gentle, low temperature and put in the dryer on a low heat setting. I KNOW! Who knew? Actually, superwash wool is a wool fiber that has been specially treated to make it washable. Again, the band on the yarn will let you know what to do about laundering. If you don’t know what fiber the fabric  is, it is always acceptable to hand wash the item like a baby. You can always place a damp item on a towel to dry, changing the towel every once in awhile as it soaks up moisture.

Since I live in Southern California, I have a lot of cotton sweaters. I wash them with Eucalan in the machine on a gentle cycle. If they seem really wet when I remove them from the washer, I place them in the dryer for about 5-10 minutes.

Occasionally, knitters come across a yarn label that says dry clean only. Well, that’s up to you. Sometimes I believe that the manufacturer is covering their (bases) so that they don’t get in trouble when you accidentally wash the item in hot water and place it in a hot dryer, and you get a sweater for your dog. I have never sent any hand knit item to the dry cleaner.

The only time that I really “block” something is when it is lace.

You will need:

A sink or basin to soak the item. I have a top loading washing machine, so for larger items, I use that as my sink.

A few old bath towels.

Plenty of rust proof pins. If you don’t know if they are rust proof, buy new ones. Ask me how I know.

Optional:  Non rinse wool wash.

Optional: Get yourself a pack of four large foam floor tiles at your local big box store, or online. These are exceedingly cheap, easy to store and wipe clean.

Method:

Soak the piece in room temperature water for at least 20 minutes. This allows the knitting to absorb the water fully and relax in the water. You can squish it with your hands if you like. (I personally love squishing my knitting!) Unless the item needs a cleaning, plain water is fine. You may add some non-rinse wool wash such as Eucalan.  I do not recommend the grocery store wool wash.

 

 

Drain the water, roll the item in clean, old towels to get all of the excess moisture out. Why old towels? If they have had plenty of use then the color of the towel will not get on the garment. If the yarn has excess dye in it, you won’t have to worry if it gets on the old towel.

 

 

 

 

Now comes the fun part! Using your foam mats or clean carpet, pin out the lace starting at the middle top and bottom and work your way out to the edges and sides. Use lots of pins and push the garment gently with your hands to open the lace work and straighten the edges. Pay special attention to any points or curves, stretching the points gently and using more pins around curves. You will have to go back over the work several times to get everything lined up and satisfactory. Make sure you don’t have dimple marks where the pins are holding the knitting. Don’t pull the knitting out too far to stretch the item bigger, as this puts excess strain on the fiber.

Let the piece dry completely. And by completely, I mean ALL THE WAY! You can’t be in a hurry for this step. Place a fan on the item if you live in a humid area. This sets the stitches into position, and they should hold until you wear the garment a lot or need to launder it again.

So there it is. Difficult? No. You can’t hurt the knitting. It doesn’t say “owie” when you put the pins in it. Like a baby, it likes a bath to keep it fresh.

Now you know how! Try it! -Martha

 

Do the Twist! German Twisted Cast On
Knitting Blog

Do the Twist! German Twisted Cast On

Martha4 Comments

Of course, there are many ways to cast on…

One of my favorite cast ons lately is the German Twisted Cast On. (Don’t ask me why it is called “German”, maybe it originated there!)

This cast on is a variation of a long tail cast on. It is stretchier than a regular long tail cast on, so it is especially good for the top of a sock, the beginning of a mitten cuff, or a hat cuff.

If you find that your own regular long tail cast on tends to be a bit too tight (yes, you are out there!), try the German Twisted Cast On instead.

I have two ways of showing students how to do this cast on. Some people find this way of casting on a bit challenging, so take a look at these two videos which both produce the same German Twisted Cast On.

While this cast on takes a bit more time and practice, the result is worth it.

Remember, Knit Yourself Happy! Martha

 

Picking up stitches in garter. (And seed stitch too!)
Knitting Blog

Picking up stitches in garter. (And seed stitch too!)

Martha1 Comment

There are so many wonderful projects that require the knitter to pick up stitches along a garter or seed stitch square or rectangle.

A couple of projects that come to mind right away are a mitered square blanket and a log cabin style blanket.

Picking up stitches on the sides of a garter or seed stitch portion of knitting is a bit different than picking up stitches along the side edges of stockinette. I like to go under only one strand of yarn between the “bumps” along the side. Garter stitch and seed stitch are essentially the same in height (rows) as they are in width (number of stitches). If you pick up  every other stitch in this way, the numbers work out perfectly. When you only go under one strand, there is less bulk on the wrong side of the fabric, making this the perfect way to have flat joins for a blanket.

Picking up stitches along the cast on and bound off edges is also very easy to do. Again, using only one strand of the cast on or bound off edge helps reduce bulk in the picked up seam.

Once you get the hang of this technique, you will have SO MUCH FUN making items that require picked up stitches along the borders of garter and seed stitch!!

KnitYourselfHappy!

Martha

Your LYS
Knitting Blog

Your LYS

Martha4 Comments

Your Local Yarn Store

Such an important place in your life; and your local yarn store needs you!

You may have heard of “Small Business Saturday,” or the “Shop Small” movement, wherein we consumers are encouraged to visit and buy from local businesses. The short summary is that shopping in small local businesses not only fosters a local economy, but offers a sense of community. While this is often advertised as an antithesis to big chains, your local yarn store can benefit too!

Here is why you should support your local yarn store by purchasing goods and services through them.

Usually, your yarn store is owned by a small business entrepreneur, someone we grow to know, rely upon for advice, and upon whom we depend. That could be the only reason to buy products, but wait, there’s more!

A typical yarn store is a warm, welcoming environment for knitters to browse through yarn, needles, and accessories. It offers the knitter the chance to see colors in person, browse new publications, and best of all: TOUCH all of the beautiful, sumptuous yarns! Your store also has completed knitted items on display! This offers first-hand inspiration: you can look at completed items, try them on, or even enjoy them for their whimsical value! Most of the time, the items have been knit by someone in the store for you to experience. Another great benefit to shopping small at the local yarn store is other knitters –more inspiration! More ways to connect with some great humans!

So how does this all happen?

Well, the local yarn store does not magically run itself! (Which conjures some wonderfully imaginative ideas!) Nope, your local yarn store is managed by that dearly beloved entrepreneur we thought of earlier.

If you didn’t have a store owner that is willing to stock the shelves with available yarn, how could you check out a yarn in person? How could you touch it and experience its wonderfulness? Think about it. To make this happen, the owner has to pay cash up-front to have stock on hand for you. Next, she wants to sell the stock so she can:

  • Buy more yarn, needles and tools for you to enjoy and explore.
  • Keep paying the rent for the cute little nook where you knit in your class.
  • Pay the electric bill so you can see the yarn, keep warm in the cold winter months, and cool when it is hot. (Because we die-hard knitters know that the knitting never ceases!)
  • Pay employees to help you. After all, the owner can’t be there all the time!

Now, of course, your store cannot purchase every yarn in the universe. But there is probably a similar yarn in the store for your project.

So with the shop small mentality in mind, I personally encourage you support your local yarn store! Your patronage keeps the business running, keeps your friends coming back to class, and keeps your talented teachers and knowledgeable staff employed. I could start a soapbox about never ever using your local yarn store to peruse items, then going home only to order the items online because it is “cheaper.” That, my friends, is detrimental to your local store, and sadly equivalent to stealing valuable business and resources from the local store you call home. You know what I mean. (Steps down off soapbox…)

So, think of your local yarn store whenever you sit down with your beautiful yarn and needles, visit your local store soon and remember to KnitYourselfHappy!

Please subscribe, comment and share!